Day 7 of 7
Seven days of Bosnian offroad is a serious thing to swallow. They came back for more ten months later.
Briefing in Fojnica. The group already knows what today is. Half of them have trailers waiting at the end of the ride — bikes loaded, drive straight to France, sleep somewhere on the motorway. The other half are staying one more night in Sarajevo, in Baščaršija, which after seven days in the mountains has earned its place as the softest landing imaginable.
We agree on the route: Bitovnja, the large mountain that sits above Fojnica, Kreševo and Konjic and can be approached from any of those sides. I have ridden Bitovnja differently every single time I’ve come here. There are that many ways in. Today we take the Fojnica side — straight up from the town, into the mud and rock that the rain has left behind.
“Walter’s back has been hurting since Day 5. His 890 is heavy and the terrain has not been kind to it. Michel pulls the bike through the deep mud sections while Walter guides. That is what a group looks like after seven days together.”
The exit from Fojnica is immediately difficult — thick mud and boulders, the kind of combination that requires everyone to help everyone. We dig out, push, pull, lift. Nobody complains. By Day 7 of a trip like this, helping each other through a mud section is not a remarkable thing. It is simply what you do. It takes the time it takes and then we move on.
Above the mud line the terrain changes. Rockier, cleaner, the plateau opening up ahead. The tyres find grip again and the mood lifts with it. Bitovnja’s plateau is wide and exposed, with views in every direction — Fojnica below, the Neretva valley further south, the ridgeline toward Kreševo ahead. We stop for a few minutes and nobody is in a hurry. The group knows this is the last stop that matters.
Bitovnja can be ridden from the Fojnica side, the Kreševo side, the Konjic side, or down from the Jablanica approach. Each gives a completely different ride — different terrain, different views, different character. If you come back to Bosnia, Bitovnja alone is worth a half-day. I have never ridden it the same way twice and I don’t intend to start.
The descent to Kreševo is clean and fast, the rock shedding the mud from the tyres on the way down. The town receives us quietly — a small, old Bosnian town that has been there long enough not to be surprised by anything. We find the restaurant, sit down, order. My original plan was to push further, toward Prenj — one of the most serious mountains in the country. The group listens to this idea, considers it for a moment, and declines. Politely but clearly. Seven days of Bosnian offroad is, as it turns out, a substantial thing. Prenj will wait. It always does.
After lunch I put a bottle of Bosnian rakija on the table in front of each rider. No speech. No ceremony. Something to take home from the country, something that will taste like this week when they open it. They take them. We shake hands. Some of them hug. The ones with trailers load their bikes and point north. The others follow me back to Sarajevo for one last night in the old city.
“We set off into the unknown — Bosnia — and what a discovery it was. The off-road playground seemed limitless, the landscapes fantastic and incredibly varied, with challenging but manageable terrain. We had an excellent time with our guide Senjin, who mapped out a route perfectly suited to our group, leaving us with unforgettable memories. As proof — we’re going back ten months later.”
They came back. Same group, different mountain. That is the only review that matters. If you want to know what Bosnia rides like — come and find out. We’ll be here.
Total rounds bought: 8. Riders who never bought a round: Patrice (Gas Gas 500) and Walter’s back, which technically doesn’t count. The guide bought the most. This is not a coincidence — it is a sign that route asks 120% from any rider.
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Day 2 takes us west. The canyon roads get narrower. Someone is already asking about tomorrow’s trail difficulty — which means they haven’t learned anything yet, or they’ve learned exactly the right thing.
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Day 1 of 7 Baščaršija to Lukomir Nine in the morning, already hot, so It is a perfect time to hide inside the woods. We left from a full Baščaršija, the old bazaar still half-asleep, pigeons and the smell of fresh “somun” bread, engines warming under minarets. Nine in the morning and already hot. Ninety […]
Escape to the World’s Most Breathtaking Islands and immerse yourself in paradise.
Escape to the World’s Most Breathtaking Islands and immerse yourself in paradise.
Escape to the World’s Most Breathtaking Islands and immerse yourself in paradise.
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